The Bunny Bunch may, in the course of boarding or re-homing, need to ask for your home address, email address and/or your mobile number. This information will only ever be used to produce paperwork such as invoices, admission forms and departure forms, or if we need to contact you regarding your pet.  No information given will ever be passed on to a third party, or used in any way that does not directly involve business transactions with The Bunny Bunch.

Any photos taken during your pet’s stay with us may be used at some point in a Facebook post. At no time will the animal’s name be mentioned, nor their place of residence, or the names of their owners.

All visitors have the right to opt out of any of the above at any time. However, for invoice purposes, we would need to at the very least have your name, email address and the general location of your residence (e.g. Colchester, Ipswich).

Under the Animal Welfare Act 2006, rabbit owners are required by law to meet their

rabbits’ welfare needs; these include providing a suitable environment. There is no one

‘perfect’ way to care for all rabbits, because every rabbit and every situation is different.

Rabbits are now kept indoors as house pets as well as outside. It is up to you how you

look after your rabbits but by law you must take reasonable steps to ensure that you

meet their welfare needs, which include:

• Environment - providing a suitable environment,

• Diet - providing a healthy diet, including fresh water,

• Behaviour - allowing them to behave normally,

• Company - providing them with appropriate company,

• Health - protecting them from pain suffering, injury and disease.

You’ll find more information on how to meet rabbits’ welfare needs on the RSPCA

website at: www.rspca.org.uk/rabbits

The Bunny Bunch will always very much appreciate any donations you are able to make towards the well-being, care, health and happiness of all animals that stay with us. Should you decide to make a donation, please click on the 'Donate' button at the top/ middle of our website page. Many thanks for your kindness through this most difficult of times xxx

Bunny Facts

• The Latin name for a rabbit is 'Oryctolagus cuniculus'

• Rabbits should never be picked up by their ears

• A male rabbit is called a buck and the female is a doe; a young rabbit is a kitten or kit

• A group of rabbits lives in a warren

• A well cared for house rabbit that has been spayed or neutered early in life has a life expectancy of 8 - 12 years

• A group of rabbits is called a herd

• Contrary to popular belief, rabbits are not a good choice of pet for children

• Rabbits are naturally social and need to live in pairs or groups like they do in the wild 

• Rabbits purr when happy! It is a soft continual chattering of the teeth (not the louder grinding which indicates pain)

• When a rabbit is happy he will jump and twist in the air - it's called a 'binky'

• Rabbit poo tells a lot about your bunny's health

• If your bunny stops eating or pooing it's a sign they are ill and must go to the vet straight away

• Rabbits are grazers and need to constantly be nibbling on hay to keep their digestive system working

• Rabbits can't be sick, so should never be kept hungry before an operation as there is no risk of vomiting

• A female rabbit can have a litter of as many as 9 babies every month - get yours neutered or spayed!

• Rabbits are lagomorphs not rodents; they are actually more closely related to horses than they are to mice!

• Rabbits are "crepuscular", which means they are most active in twilight hours (sunrise and sunset)

• 80% of a rabbit's diet should be hay - there are lots of tasty varieties available

• Rabbits have 28 teeth which all grow continually throughout their lives and need to be worn down by chewing lots of hay

• A problem with your rabbit's eye could actually indicate tooth problems - get your bunny checked out by a vet

• You can get an idea of how relaxed or stressed your rabbit is by watching how slow or fast his nose twitches

• Rabbits eat their own droppings! 

Safe Food for Rabbits

Rabbits love their food and enjoy fresh fruits and vegetables as part of a balanced diet. The main part of a rabbit’s diet should be unlimited amounts of fresh hay (preferably Timothy or Meadow Hay), grass, and plenty of clean water available. 

When introducing any new food, always do so slowly over a few weeks to avoid digestive upsets. Rabbits, like humans are all different and as such some may be unable to tolerate certain foods. Only give a small amount and wait for 24 hours, if your rabbit produces soft poo, withdraw the food and try with something else after everything has settled back to normal. Allow 5 - 7 days before making any other additions. Always wash food first and don't feed plants from roadsides or that contain pesticides.

The first rule of feeding bunnies and their delicate tummies is: if in doubt - don't let them eat it! Rabbits have strong tastebuds and will try anything even if it's poisonous - it's up to you to protect them! The following list was taken from the RWAF website.

Which vegetables can rabbits eat?

A good guideline is to feed a minimum of 1 cup of vegetables for each 4 lbs of body weight per day.

• Artichoke leaves

• Asparagus

• Baby Sweetcorns (but not full size ones)

• Beetroot (care with leafy tops as high levels of oxalic acid) - can cause gas so limit

• Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties) - can cause gas so limit

• Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts) - can cause gas so limit

• Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets) - can cause gas so limit

• Carrots (& carrot tops) – not the roots as they are high in sugars. Carrots should be limited due to high sugar content.

• Cauliflower (and the leaves)

• Celeriac

• Celery leaves

• Chicory

• Courgette (and flowers)

• Cucumber

• Curly Kale

• Fennel

• Green beans

• Kohl rabi

• Peas (including the leaves and pods)

• Peppers (red, green and yellow)

• Pumpkin

• Radish Tops - can cause gas so limit

• Rocket (also known as Arugula)

• Romaine lettuce (not Iceberg or light coloured leaf)

• Spinach (only occasional)

• Spring Greens

• Squash (e.g. Butternut)

• Swede

• Turnip (only occasional)

• Watercress

Which fruits can rabbits eat?

Fruits should be fed in moderation due to sugar content (up to 2 tablespoons worth per day).

Do not feed the pips, stones, plants etc of fruits unless otherwise stated, as most of the time they are poisonous! Rabbits love sugary fruit and will eat too much of it, which is bad for them. Therefore it's up to you to limit it!

• Apple (not the pips - they are poisonous!)

• Apricot

• Banana (high in potassium)

• Blackberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties)

• Blueberries

• Cherries (not the pits and plant - they contain cyanide and are therefore poisonous!)

• Grapes

• Kiwi Fruit

• Mango

• Melon

• Nectarines

• Papaya

• Peaches

• Pears

• Pineapple

• Plums

• Raspberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties)

• Strawberries (and leaves)

• Tomatoes (NOT the leaves)

Safe herbs for bunnies

They can taste very strong so offer a little to start with to get your bunnies used to them.

• Basil

• Coriander (also known as Cilantro

• Dill

• Mint (peppermint)

• Parsley - not too much as high in calcium

• Oregano

• Rosemary

• Sage

• Thyme

Wild garden herbs, weeds and flowers that rabbits can eat

Double-check which plants are in your garden before letting your bunnies loose!

• Borage

• Calendula

• Camomile

• Chickweed (astringent)

• Clover (leaves and flowers)

• Coltsfoot

• Comfrey

• Dandelion (diuretic properties)

• Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat!

• Lavender

• Mallow

• Nettle

• Nasturtium (leaves and flowers)

• Shepherd’s purse

• Sow Thistle

• Plantain

• Yarrow

Un-Safe Food for Rabbits

Avoid giving your rabbits any 'human' food or treats such as bread, rice, potatoes, biscuits, chocolate, sweets, crisps and so on. Rabbits have a sweet tooth and will readily take this food from you, but it's VERY BAD for them and their sensitive digestive systems. Contrary to popular belief, rabbits shouldn't be given lettuce as it gives them diarrhea, and carrots are too high in sugar but can be given every so often as treats. A lot of shop-bought 'rabbit treats' have added sugar and dairy in, which they shouldn't be eating, or are too high in carbohydrates; try sticking to the natural ranges and check labels.

Poisonous plants to avoid

If you’re feeding wild plants or your rabbit has access to a garden, make sure you can reliably identify the plants – you don’t want to poison your bunnies! This list of poisonous plants is taken from the RWAF Guide: Going green - healthy eating for your rabbit. It does not list all poisonous plants, so if a plant does not feature on this list it doesn't mean it's safe to eat. If you think your rabbit is ill you must seek veterinary advice immediately.

• All plants that grow from bulbs

• Amaryllis

• Arum lily (cuckoo point)

• Bindweed

• Bracken

• Bryony

• Buttercup (small quantities dried within hay is ok)

• Convolvulus (bindweed)

• Deadly nightshade (belladonna)

• Delphinium (larkspur)

• Elder

• Fools parsley

• Foxglove

• Hellebores (christmas rose)

• Hemlock

• Henbane

• Lily of the valley

• Lupin

• Laburnum

• Most evergreens

• Oak leaves

• Poppies

• Potato tops

• Privet

• Ragwort

• Rhubarb leaves

• Scarlet runnertoadflax

• Woody nightshade

• Yew

15 Emergency Reasons To Take Your Rabbit To The Vet

1. Not moving around, sitting hunched up.

2. Change of food preference or loss of appetite.

3. Smaller, fewer or no poos.

4. Broken bones / legs.

5. Collapse.

6. Mouth breathing.

7.Runny eyes/nose/coughing/sneezing/wheezing.

8. Flystrike.

9. Blood in urine.

10. Dribbling/wet fur around mouth.

11. Haemorrhage.

12. Fitting.

13. Screaming.

14. Diarrhoea.

15. Significant wounds.

How To Handle A Rabbit Correctly

(Taken from the RSPCA website)

Early socialisation of young rabbits affects how they respond to handling in later life. Rabbits that receive little handling at an early age, or rough handling at any age, may find human contact distressing. This can be expressed as fearfulness, escape behaviour and aggression. Regular, gentle handling from a young age can help rabbits learn to see humans as friends and companions.

Rabbits are naturally sociable and inquisitive animals. A good relationship with your rabbit can be rewarding for both you and your rabbit, particularly in easing the process of catching and transporting your rabbit, such as taking it to the vet. Being a prey species, rabbits are constantly on the lookout for predators and their natural response to a perceived threat is to flee. Remember that the only time they are picked up in the wild is when they are about to be eaten by a predator! Correct handling is very important, so that your rabbit does not see you as a threat. Rabbits that are frightened may develop unwanted behaviours such as aggression or hiding. Stressed rabbits are much more likely to become ill.

Handling Your Rabbit Correctly

1. Move slowly and talk quietly around rabbits to avoid startling them. This will make any interactions less stressful and so potentially easier.

2. Correct handling of rabbits is vital, as they have a fragile spine and if they feel insecure and struggle they can sustain serious, potentially fatal injuries such as fractures.

3. To hold your rabbit correctly, you should hold them gently but firmly. Ensure one hand supports your rabbits back and hindquarters at all times and make your rabbit feel secure by having all four feet held against your body. Covering your rabbits eyes (with a towel, or in the crook of your arm) can help them to feel more relaxed, but you must ensure that their nostrils are not obstructed.

4. To reduce stress during handling and minimize the risk of injury, it is important to use the minimum effective level of restraint, according to their temperament, health status, and the reason for picking them up.

5. You must never pick up your rabbit by the ears. This would be extremely stressful and is highly likely to result in injury to your rabbit.

6. Slippery surfaces should be avoided, for example, give them a towel to sit on, to help them feel more secure.

7. Attempting to handle your rabbit from a standing position may scare them. Picking your rabbit up when you are positioned close to the ground is likely to be less frightening for them and will reduce the risk of injury if the rabbit is accidentally dropped. If possible, all interactions should be carried out at ground level, as the rabbit will then see you as less of a threat.

8. Young children should be supervised at all times when interacting with rabbits, and ideally the children should be on ground level with the rabbit. Only adults and older children should be allowed to pick rabbits up, in order to reduce the risk of injury.

Neutering of Rabbits

(Taken from RPSCA Website)

The RSPCA strongly suggests that all rabbits that are not intended for breeding should be neutered. If you neuter rabbits, you not only prevent the risk of unwanted litters, you also reduce the risk of tumours in females, and may reduce territorial aggression and undesired sexual behaviours in both sexes.

Un-neutered female rabbits are at a high risk of developing tumours (uterine adenocarcinoma is the most common tumour of female rabbits). In females older than 3 years of age, incidence may approach 80%.

Un-neutered rabbits living in the same enclosure may show territorial aggression and undesired sexual behaviours, such as fighting and urine spraying (in males), particularly if the rabbits have inadequate space and are not provided with suitable hiding places. Neutering reduces the likelihood of fighting in both male and female rabbits, which allows rabbits, which are social animals, to be kept in friendly pairs or groups.

If your rabbit is not intended for breeding, the RSPCA recommends that you neuter your rabbit, as this can improve your rabbits behaviour and health. Neutering can take place at 12 weeks of age for males and 16 weeks of age for females, although your vet may specify the age at which they are prepared to carry out the procedure.. Rabbits must always be provided with adequate space, enrichment and multiple hiding places.

Rabbit Vaccination

(Taken from Vets4Pets)

There are three diseases that rabbits should be routinely vaccinated against, myxomatosis, and rabbit haemorrhagic diseases 1 & 2, known as RHD1 & RHD2.

These vaccinations used to be given as two separate injections within 2-4 weeks of each other. However, all three rabbit diseases can now be covered with only one vaccination, which should be repeated annually.

Please be aware that the all-in-one vaccination is not currently available at all vet practices as it is quite a new thing. Also, baby rabbits, and rabbits who have not had any vaccinations before will more than likely be required to have the separate injections in the first instance.

RHD1

This is a very serious infectious disease that can affect any rabbit. It has no cure and is invariably fatal.

RHD1 is spread by direct contact between rabbits, and indirectly through contact with contaminated clothing, hutches, bedding and by parasites such as fleas, which means that even indoor rabbits can be infected. Signs of RHD1 include depression, collapse, breathing difficulties, very high fever, bleeding from the nose and fits.

Death usually occurs within 12-36 hours. RHD1 can be prevented with an annual vaccination, which can be given from 5 weeks of age onwards.

RHD2

RHD2 is a callcivirus infection.

It causes various clinical signs including slowing of gut movement, loss of appetite, jaundice and fits, but it is most commonly associated with severe internal and external bleeding and rapid death.

Myxomatosis

Myxomatosis is a common viral disease spread by biting insects such as fleas, flies and mosquitos. The disease affects wild rabbits and all breeds of domestic rabbits, and is almost always fatal. Rabbits affected have swollen eyes with discharge, along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the inside of the ears and puffy swellings around the genitals and anus. Within a day or so, swellings can become so severe that they cause blindness and facial deformity, stopping the rabbit from eating.

Typically rabbits die within 12 days of becoming infected. Prevention of myxomatosis is best achieved by vaccination. Good basic husbandry is also essential and steps should be taken to avoid putting your rabbit in stressful situations.

Rabbits over the age of 5 weeks can be vaccinated against myxomatosis.

Important

Annual vaccination is the key to maintaining optimal protection, both for outdoor and indoor rabbits.

Parasite Control

(Taken from Vets4Pets)

Parasites are split into ectoparasites, which live on the skin and coat, and endoparasites, which live inside your rabbit. Ectoparasites include mites, maggots and fleas.

Ectoparasites

Mites: Rabbits can be affected by mites, which cause intense itching and discomfort. Common UK mite species include Cheyletiella (also known as fur mites or walking dandruff) and ear mites. Importantly, some products designed for other species as mite treatments can be fatal to rabbits – always get treatment from your vet, and only use rabbit-safe preparations.

Flystrike: Rabbits living in damp conditions, or which are soiled by urine or faeces, are at risk of flies laying their eggs in contaminated fur, especially around their back end.

These eggs hatch into maggots, which bury into the skin and cause shock, infection and often rapid death. This condition is known as flystrike, or mylasis, and is unfortunately reasonably common, especially in outdoor rabbits.

Keeping rabbits clean and dry and always away from flies, is critical for preventing flystrike. The best ways to do this are regular cleaning of the housing and keeping your rabbit on good health, as dental or gastrointestinal problems can lead to diarrhoea, or a dirty bottom, which attracts the flies. Preventative treatment should also be discussed with your vet. Products are available to repel flies, or to prevent fly eggs from developing into maggots, and are sponged or sprayed on to your rabbit regularly.

Products should be used throughout the fly season, which runs from about May to October.

Fleas: Rabbits can get infested with fleas, although this is uncommon. Fleas are worrying for rabbits, as they can transmit the deadly disease myxomatosis, so any rabbit seen to be scratching more frequently should be checked by your vet.

Ticks: Ticks are rarely found on rabbits, but can be picked up from other pets in the family, especially dogs. If you find a tick on your rabbit, contact your vet for advice on how to remove it, as incorrect removal can leave the tick mouthparts under the skin, and may lead to infection.

Endoparasites

E. Cuniculi: E. Cuniculi is a microscopic parasite of the brain and kidneys. Many rabbits carry the parasite and are not unwell, but in some rabbits signs can be very serious. In these rabbits, the most obvious sign is a head tilt, and signs can also include seizures (fits), hind limb weakness and loss of vision and balance. This can also be mistaken for a stroke. Signs are most likely to be seen in rabbits that are under stress, such as when meeting a new rabbit or moving home. Routine preventative treatment is not required, but as rabbits can be at risk during high stress times, your vet can advise you on how to minimize the risk of infection during these periods.

Intestinal Worms: Intestinal worms live in the guts, moving freely and feeding on the gut contents. Rabbits can pick up worm eggs if they come into contact with a contaminated environment or other infected rabbits. Worm eggs can survive in the environment for years, so anywhere rabbits have access is a potential source of infection. Some rabbits may show no signs of infection, but heavily infected individuals may have diarrhoea, weight loss and a pot-bellied appearance. Worms will be diagnosed by your vet and treated – regular preventative treatment is not required, unlike in cats and dogs.

Rabbit Nutrition

(Taken from Vets4Pets)

Nutrition is of vital importance for rabbits, especially for dental and gastrointestinal health. Rabbits teeth continue to grow throughout their lives, so need to be constantly worn down by the action of eating.

High fibre diets help keep teeth under control, and reduce the need for dental veterinary intervention later in life. High fibre intake is also critical for the intestines. Fibre helps balance the normal gut bacteria and keeps food moving properly; slow or stopped guts, known as ileus, can be fatal for rabbits.

A rabbits diet should be 70% fresh, sweet-smelling hay and 28% leafy greens such as broccoli, dark green leafy cabbage, dandelions and parsley. Carrot-tops are great, but carrots are very sugary and should only be given as a treat. This means pellets or nuggets should be only 2% of your rabbits daily diet; that’s about 1-2 tablespoons a day.

Where pellets are concerned, variety isn’t the spice of life. Picking a dry food where all the pieces look the same might seem boring, but it’s actually much better for the rabbit. Rabbits can be selective and, if offered the choice, will pick the tastiest bits out of a mixed food resulting in unbalanced nutrition and poor health.

Feeding the correct diet to rabbits not only provides the right nutrition but also fulfils their behavioural need to spend a large part of their day eating, and maximizes health and welfare by helping to prevent a variety of commonly seen diseases.

Rabbit Housing

(Taken from Vets4Pets)

Rabbits can be indoor or outdoor housed, and can be happy in either situation, so long as their physical and behavioural needs are met.

This means much more than just a hutch or cage, although most rabbits will have something like this to sleep in. Hutches need to be big enough for a rabbit to take 3 hops and be able to stretch fully upright. 

The Rabbit Welfare Association (RWAF) recommend a minimum hutch size as being 6ft x 2ft x 2ft with an 8ft run.

My Personal Opinion: A two-tier hutch is a great option, as it gives the rabbits more room, and also gives them a higher vantage point, which is important to them. Two-tier hutches should never be smaller than 5ft long and must always be provided with a run. A 6ft long double hutch with a run is ideal, especially if you have more than one rabbit.

Indoors: Rabbits can be house-trained and, as long as the areas they visit are rabbit-proof; can be left within the home environment. The social aspect of living inside can really bring out the personality of a rabbit, and help all the family engage with their smallest family member.

Outdoors: It is important not to leave your rabbit in a hutch long-term. Rabbits need to have plenty of room to move around. Outdoor runs are a great way to help rabbits stretch their legs. Vets4Pets recommended run size for a pair of average size rabbits is at least an overall area of 3m x 2m and a height of 1m. Regular handling and attention are also incredibly important to rabbits, and should be part of the daily routine, even during colder and wetter months.

Information taken from The Rabbit Welfare Association

Pet rabbits may show social, sexual and even aggressive behaviours, although these tend to be mild. Females may dig out new burrows. Rabbits may be aggressive to other rabbits and people and there may be an increase in chasing and mounting of their companion.  There may be an increase in them ‘chinning’ items to mark their territory too.

Rabbits know when spring is coming. As the day gets longer and it warms up, it triggers ‘spring mode’ in rabbits and their hormone levels rise, along with the linked behaviours.

During spring and early summer it is quite common for bonded pairs (who may have been bonded for many years and never had problems), to have more disagreements and ‘tiffs’. There will be more mounting and chasing but as long as there is no fighting this should settle down in a few weeks. If serious fighting breaks out they’ll need to be separated, given time to calm down and then carefully reintroduced once their hormones have settled down.  This may take several weeks.

Keep a close eye on your rabbits at this time and act immediately if you see any fighting or signs that a fight may have happened (scattering of fur, blood or wounds on one or both rabbits).

Give them plenty to in their home to keep mentally and physically active. Allow them the freedom to express their normal behaviours of digging, foraging, running and jumping.

Why Hay is so Important for Rabbits

Hay might look boring to humans but for rabbits it's their main dish of the day, with 80-90% of their diet needing to be hay! (and grass is very good too!) It keeps them healthy and helps them function in a number of ways, the main ones being:

• Hay is made up of long fibres that help the muscles of the bunny's gut stay strong. A rabbit's complex digestive system means they need to constantly snack on hay throughout the day to keep things moving inside, and help prevent blockages (eg. from fur or things they've eaten - rabbits seem to have little concept of what they can and cannot digest!) Blockages can often be fatal. If a rabbit doesn't eat enough hay then this can slow down the rabbit's intestinal functions and cause serious problems eg. GI Stasis (see below).

What is GI Stasis?

It stands for GastroIntestinal Stasis and is also known as 'the silent killer' as you have to watch carefully for it. G.I. Stasis is the condition of food not moving through the gut as quickly as normal. The gut contents may dehydrate and compact into a hard, immobile mass (impacted gut), blocking the digestive tract of the rabbit. Food in an immobile gut may also ferment, causing significant gas buildup and resultant gas pain for the rabbit.

 The first noticeable symptom of G.I. Stasis may be that the rabbit suddenly stops eating, or may not be pooing. You MUST take your rabbit to the vet if he shows either of these symptoms, or any other change. If not, it can become fatal within 24 hours.

• Chewing hay grinds their ever-growing teeth down to a safe level

Rabbits' teeth continually grow, including all of their back ones (did you know rabbits have 28 teeth?!) If these aren't kept in check by wearing them down on hay and grass, they can grow out of control and cause painful abcesses, and even grow into the eyes from within. It's a fast process - rabbit teeth grow about 12cm a year! Eye problems are often linked to the teeth. Other foods (even hard pellets) do not wear the teeth down like the side-to-side jaw action used when eating hay.

Keeps bunnies busy rearranging it and searching for the best tasting pieces teaches rabbits good litter tray habits.

How much hay should rabbits eat and how often?

They should eat a bundle of hay their own body size every day! They need access to clean hay every day (no one likes dirty or stale food!) and in unlimited portions. Make sure wherever they are they have access to fresh, clean hay to snack on, and access to water to keep the hay going down nicely. Yesterday's hay can be moved to their toilet area, with a nice fresh pile of hay in its place.

Is all hay the same?

No! There are many different types and if you shop around you'll see it ranges from cheap, dusty, yellow short bits of hay (avoid!) to luscious, sweet-smelling green hay. Timothy hay is the most popular, but you can also find others such as oat hay. Alfafa hay contains a lot of calcium and protein (which adult bunnies don't need a lot of) so feed sparingly.

How can I get my rabbit to eat more hay?

A common problem with rabbits! Bunnies love to eat and nibble on things, and will always choose tastier things than hay given the chance. Here are some tips to get your rabbits eating more hay:

Cutting down on pellets (dry food) will encourage them to snack on hay (they only need an eggcup size portion per day). Try feeding pellets for breakfast and just provide hay throughout the day. WARNING: Slowly reduce the amount of pellets you give them - if they're not used to eating hay then suddenly taking away their main food source could be dangerous

• Try them on various hays (try asking for sample packs so you don't have to buy a big bag each time)

• Mix tasty bits in with their hay encouraging them to forage in there, such as grass and herbs

• Mix a few hays into one pile

• Stuff toilet roll tubes with hay to make fun games for them

• Put hay everywhere they go so they can't get away from it!

• Rabbits like to eat hay while they're going to the toilet, so put a pile of hay in their litter tray

• Grass is also good for rabbits' teeth and tummies so give them grass while you're weaning them onto hay! (Pick from your garden but don't give lawn mowings as it turns mushy and can upset their stomachs)

• 'Readigrass' is dried grass, good for rabbit teeth and can help wean them onto hay textures (may be high in calcium so only give a small handful per day, try mixing in with hay)

• Wave hay in their face and tap it on their mouths - it will annoy them enough to bite it and this eventually turns into them eating it!

• Lightly spray pineapple juice on some hay and let it dry, they'll like the sweet taste

• Different rabbits like different hays so take notes and once they start eating hay, try ones that have previously been 'dismissed' by them as they may like them now they have a taste for hay!

Information taken from The Blue Cross website.

Move your pets hutch out of the sun into a cooler place (this may even be inside)

A fan can be used to keep the air cool and create airflow, however, do not blow the fan directly onto your pets and ensure they have enough room to move away if they wish. Cover any wires with pet-proof covering to avoid your pet chewing on dangerous electrics. A cold, rung out towel can be placed over the run to provide shade and the fan can be blown onto this to help lower the temperature. Be careful to not cover the whole hutch as the animals will still need airflow to keep cool and ensure that the towel isn't dripping wet to avoid drenching your rabbits.

Small animals are not good swimmers so please don’t encourage them to jump in a pool as the shock could even prove fatal. Instead, try freezing a large bottle of water or ice packs and wrapping them in an old, clean tea towel and place in the hutch. That way, if your pets feel hot, they can lie next to the bottle to keep cool.

Consider purchasing a special self-cooling mat which can be placed on the floor of the hutch or run to lower temperatures and provide respite from the heat

Marble tiles or slates are brilliant to introduce into a run and keep it cool so your pets can lie on it if needed. Be careful to ensure the tiles remain in the shade, though, as the tiles can become extremely hot if placed in direct sunlight.

Ensure your pets have plenty of fresh, cool water to stay hydrated

Consider soaking your pets leafy greens in icy water or serve fresh from the fridge so that they're nice and cold, or freeze them into ice cubes.

Rabbits in the wild live in warrens which are deep underground. By digging soil and getting out of the sunlight rabbits can keep cool. Consider introducing a man-made warren in the run to keep your rabbit happy and cool.

Use a brush to get rid of any excess fur which will make them feel hotter and more uncomfortable in the heat

Dampen your pets ears with a wet cloth or a fine mist (if they're comfortable with you doing this). They lose heat through their ears so this will speed up the cooling process.

The advice below comes from The Blue Cross website.

Give your pet extra bedding to burrow into so it feels safe.

Give your rabbit lots of extra bedding so they can burrow down in it and get cosy. You could put a cardboard box full of hay, with holes cut in for easy access and exit, in their hutch to give them an extra place to hide.

Bring your rabbits’ hutch or cage indoors. A quiet room is best, but an unused garage or shed is a good alternative if you can’t bring them into your house.

If you can’t bring your pets inside, turn their enclosure around so it faces a wall or fence instead of the open garden. This will help to stifle the sound and prevent them from seeing the flashes of light. Cover their hutch with thick blankets or a duvet to block out the sound of the bangs and the sight of the fireworks, but make sure your pet still has enough ventilation.

If you have a house rabbit or you are able to bring your pet inside, draw the curtains or black out the windows to block out the flashes of light in the night sky.

Close the windows to muffle the sound from outside. Switching the TV or radio on might help too, but make sure it’s not too loud – especially if your rabbit isn’t used to noises from the television.

Rabbits are social animals so keep them with the companion they’re familiar with to limit the stress of firework phobia.

Information taken from The Blue Cross website.

Keeping pet hutches warm in winter is very important, hutches should be positioned so that wind, rain, snow or sleet can’t blow in. If the weather’s particularly bad, move the hutch into an unused garage or shed if it’s possible.

If your pet needs to stay outside, help keep them snug as a bug in their hutch by covering the front with an old blanket or sacking and adding extra bedding. Don’t forget you need to change their bedding regularly.

Check their water bottle regularly because the little ball freezes easily. Press the ball every few hours to keep it moving – you can get specially made bottle covers but you’ll still need to do regular checks.

Your pet still needs to have access to their run during the day so they can get their regular exercise.

Cold pets need more calories to keep warm so give them lots of good quality hay to nibble on.

During the winter foxes and badgers get even hungrier, which makes them bolder than usual. Make sure your hutch is sturdy enough to survive the attention of a determined predator.

 Guinea Pig Facts

(Taken from Pets4Homes)

1. The other name for a Guinea Pig is ‘cavy’, which is the short version of their official name – Cavia Porcellus.

2. Guinea Pigs are tail-less rodents with stout bodies and are kept as pets by many people all over the country.

3. There are 3 types of Guinea Pig – the first is the American/English one, which has short hair with a smooth coat. The second is the Abyssinian which has a more wiry coat with hair that forms swirls similar to rosettes. The third is the Peruvian, which have straight, long, silky hair.

4. Guinea Pigs are not related to pigs and they do not come from Guinea. The Guinea in their names refer to the country of Guyana and because they have stout bodies which gives them a ‘piggy like’ appearance, they are named after them.

5. They originally come from the Andes.

6. They are very active during the day, and less so at night.

7. Guinea Pigs love to spend their time grooming each other and themselves, making them very clean animals to keep as pets.

8. A healthy weight for a Guinea Pig is between 700 and 1200g (1.5 – 2.5lbs).

9. Guinea Pigs are around 20 – 25cm long (8 – 10 inches).

10. Guinea Pigs in the wild live on grassy plains and semi-arid deserts.

11. The life-span of a Guinea Pig is between 4 – 7 years. The better a Guinea Pig is looked after, the longer they will live.

12. When it comes to diet, they are herbivores and they mainly live on grass and hay.

13. They make lots of different noises when they want to express themselves. This includes squealing, chirping, rumbling and purring.

14. The most common health issues seen in Guinea Pigs include diarrhoea, scurvy, respiratory tract infections  and abscesses.

15. Guinea Pigs are gorgeous creatures that make ideal pets. They are lovely to handle, with soft fur, and they rarely bite or scratch.

16. They are very social animals and are much happier when kept in pairs or groups.

17. A female is called a ‘sow’, a male is called a ‘boar’.

18. Baby Guinea Pigs are called ‘pups’.

19. ‘Pups’ are born with fur and their eyes open.

20. Their teeth continue to grow throughout their lives which is why it is important for them to constantly gnaw on the things they like to eat so that they wear their teeth down.

21. In the wild, they live in social groups called ‘herds’.

22. Domestic Guinea Pigs need to have lots of attention and love to be with you when you are around.

23. Guinea Pigs are incredibly sensitive to loud noises.

24. A Guinea Pig that stretches out shows they are relaxed and happy.

25. When they are happy, Guinea Pigs jump straight up and down in the air. This is known as ‘pop corning’. You’ll see young ones do this when they are playing.

26. Guinea Pigs cannot naturally produce Vitamin C in their bodies, which is why you need to supplement their diets with this vitamin.

27. They were once raised as a food source by tribal people.

28. The Incas used to sacrifice Guinea Pigs to the Sun God in religious ceremonies.

29. Today, Guinea Pigs are one of the most popular pets in the UK and America.

30. Guinea Pigs love to eat fruit and vegetables which contain lots of healthy nutrients.

31. They do really well on Timothy hay.

32. The oldest recorded Guinea Pig lived to the ripe old age of 15, which earned them a place in the Guiness Book of Records.

33. They have 4 toes on their front feet, but only 3 on their back feet.

34. All Guinea Pigs have 5 different sorts of hair that makes up their coat.

35. Baby Guinea Pigs, ‘pups’, are ale to run when they are only a few hours old.

Keeping Guinea Pigs Entertained

(Taken from Pets4Homes)

1. Hang all sorts of treats like apples, carrots, lettuce and oranges around their cages, but cutting them into small pieces and hanging them from the top of the cage using string. This will keep them busy and give them plenty of exercise.

2. Empty kitchen and toilet rolls make perfect toys. Cut the middle in half so that it is open then place inside the cage with a bit of food hidden inside. You cut the tube so that the Guinea Pig doesn’t get stuck in it.

3. Guinea Pigs love to hide, so you could take a couple of paper bags and put them in the cage. Cut holes in the back and sides of the bag for them to peep through. Never use plastic bags as they would suffocate.

4. Always place your Guinea Pig’s cage in a room that lots of people use and spend time in. Like this, your pet will always see people, which is important, because in the wild they are very social creatures and can get lonely when left on their own.

5. Make a shelf in their cage so that they can climb on it and watch the world go by (make sure they can’t use the shelf as a means to get out of their cage. Some Guinea Pigs have been known to use a shelf as a way to kick their droppings out of their cages.

6. Give them wooden toys to gnaw, as this helps to keep their teeth down, and also keeps them from gnawing on things they shouldn’t!

Guinea Pigs are classed as exotic pets in veterinary terms, along with rabbits and ferrets and other small furries.

While all small-animal veterinary clinics can provide basic care services for Guinea Pigs, such as performing health checks, troubleshooting and dealing with common problems, this is usually where veterinary services for these pets end, which means that if your pet becomes ill with an uncommon or complicated condition, they may need to be referred to a specialist clinic, which can prove expensive.

It is possible to get insurance for Guinea Pigs to help with the cost of unexpected veterinary care, but this usually means going to an exotic specialist insurer, which can be expensive, particularly when you take into account the fact that Guinea Pigs should not be kept alone, and so you would need to pay for a policy on each Guinea Pig that you own.

Guinea Pigs do not have standard vaccinations , but you still need to take them to the vet for their annual health check, which is very important.

While spay and neuter for Guinea Pigs is not as common and widespread as it is in many other pets. Guinea Pigs can be neutered if necessary. Generally, keeping your piggies in same-sex groups negates the need for neutering, but if you have males and females together and do not want them to breed, you may need to arrange to have your males neutered.

1. One of the most common health problems include Vitamin C deficiency, which occurs as Guinea Pigs are not able to synthesize their own Vitamin C. This means that you pets should be provided with a range of fresh fruit and veg every day to help to provide this important vitamin.

2. Respiratory problems are also one of the more common Guinea Pig health issues, and this title covers a range of potential problems, including bacterial infections, pneumonia and other issues, which you should be on the alert for.

3. Older Guinea Pigs are also prone to developing lumps and bumps that may indicate tumour formation. Some of these may be operable depending on the age and general heath of your pet, and the variables relating to the tumour itself.

4. Diarrhoea and digestive upsets are a relatively common but usually minor problem for Guinea Pigs, and these commonly occur if your pet eats too much fruit and veg, or unripe fruit.

Dental Issues

Guinea Pig teeth grow throughout their lives, and are worn down by food that your pet eats. If your pet’s diet does not serve to wear their teeth down enough, or if their teeth grow crooked, this can lead to dental problems, which may mean a trip to the vet in order to have their teeth trimmed down to a safe, comfortable level.

It is important to register your Guinea Pig with a vet and take them along for annual health checks, and also to know when you Guinea Pig needs to see a vet. If you have any concerns, give your local vet a call for advice and information. Below is a general but brief list of when your Guinea Pig will need to see the Vet.

1. Your Guinea Pig has severe diarrhoea, or diarrhoea has continued for more than 24 hours. 

2. Any type of fits, seizures or unconsciousness.

3. If your Guinea Pig is dropped, attacked by another pet or otherwise potentially injured.

4. Your Guinea Pig refuses to eat for any length of time.

5. Your Guinea Pig is constipated or not passing faeces.

6. Your pet is breathing noisily, or appears to be having problems breathing.

7. If your pet is losing weight and condition quickly.

8. If your Guinea Pig is developing lumps, bumps, or any other unusual areas on their bodies.

It is important to keep on top of the worm problem with any animal, whether domestic or farm. Pet owners know that a parasite infestation could lead to a lot of discomfort or serious illness for our furry friends. Guinea Pigs are no different to other animals, although it is rare for them to get worms. However, a Guinea Pig can suffer with two kinds of parasite problem, so it is always worth keeping an eye out to make sure you catch them in time. Many Guinea Pig owners have kept their pets for years without ever having wormed them and never had any problems, so it is really a matter of making an informed decision on whether your pet needs to be wormed or not. If you suspect there is a problem, you should discuss things with your vet.

Guinea Pigs pick up worms from the fresh food they eat and this includes any grass or hay the owner gives them. Even the best quality hay may have insect eggs on it, which when eaten by Guinea Pigs can lead to insects hatching out inside their pets. Worms in Guinea Pigs is really about endoparasitic problems, which is an internal issue, and ectoparasitic problems, which is an external parasite problem, which includes lice and mites. It is always a good idea to wash any fresh foods you give your Guinea Pigs. However, this is not always an option because any hay may have parasite eggs on it, and if you give your pet some fresh grass every day, the chances are it could have eggs on it too, but you should rinse as much of the fresh food as you can before feeding it to your pet.

Can I Protect My Guinea Pig From Parasites?

Making sure you feed only the best quality food will go a long way in helping to keep parasites down. You should feed high quality hay, and any fresh food you give your pet should be sweet smelling and dry. Regularly bathing Guinea Pigs also helps to keep parasites like mites and lice under control.

There are certain symptoms to look out for should your pet be suffering any endoparasitic problem. Symptoms to watch out for include the following:

1. Your Guinea Pig may start to lose weight.

2. Their droppings will be very runny leading to diarrhoea.

3. They could lose their appetites.

4. They may have a bloated abdomen.

5. Your Guinea Pig will be lethargic and uninterested in anything around them.

At first, it can be quite hard to spot where there is a problem, but if nothing is done, their health will go downhill pretty quickly. The condition may become chronic and eventually it can turn into a life threatening problem if left unchecked. When Guinea Pigs suffer with continued parasitic activity, they have problems absorbing much needed nutrients through their gut walls. This can be a real problem because Guinea Pigs then become malnourished, which has nothing to do with them being given the wrong diet. Your pet will lose condition simply because they can’t get all they need out of the food they ingest due to the parasite problem. If you think your Guinea Pig is suffering from any sort of endoparasitic problem, you need to take them along to se your vet. Very often, the build up of parasites takes a long time to develop and with the symptoms being hard to spot, people often think the problem has suddenly happened, and do not realise it has been stewing for a while. The result is that owners and vets can be taken by surprise and think the problem is due to some sort of poisoning rather than a parasite problem.

How To Treat an Endoparasitic Problem in Guinea Pigs

Treating an endoparasitic problem is much the same as worming, although you may have to repeat the dose in order to kill off the parasites. The best course of action is to seek veterinary advice on which parasite product to use on your pet if they are showing signs of being unwell that could be associated with worms.

Should I Regularly Worm My Guinea Pig?

(Taken from Pets4Homes)

Regularly worming your Guinea Pig will certainly help control parasites and prevent them from building up into a more serious problem. You have a choice of either worming your pet with a herbal product or a worming medicine that has to be prescribed through a vet. You can find herbal anti-parasitic remedies on the internet, but other pharmaceutical wormers have to be purchased through a veterinary clinic because they are prescription only medicines (POM’s). The generic name for these drugs are either ivermectin, albendazole or fenbendazole. The doses are administered orally and careful dosing has to be given as per a vet’s instructions. Guinea Pigs under the age of 6 months should not be wormed at all.

Making Sure Your Guinea Pig is Drinking

If you notice that a Guinea Pig is off its food and looking very lethargic, the chances are they are not drinking enough water either. This can be a real problem that makes matters a lot worse for them. They will dehydrate very quickly if you don’t get enough fluids into them. If your Guinea Pig is suffering from an infestation of parasites, the chances are they will have diarrhoea. If they are not drinking any water, they will go downhill very fast, so you need to get some fluids into them, and the best person to treat the problem is your vet.

Three Things Your Guinea Pigs Need

1. Constant access to good quality grass or hay, day and night. In order to maintain a healthy digestive system and strong healthy teeth, Guinea Pigs need to be chewing on either or both of these whenever they want to.

2. You need to offer about a teacup of fresh greens to each of your Guinea Pigs every day, so that they get all the nutrients and vitamins out of them.

3. You need to feed your Guinea Pigs some good quality Guinea Pig nuggets – make sure you follow the guidelines on the packet as to how much to feed them on a daily basis.

Avoid feeding your Guinea Pig any muesli-type mixtures, as you will end up with lots of bits being left over. They will eat the tastier bits, usually the sweetest bits, and leave anything they don’t like, which are usually the healthy bits that are full of fibre. Alack of fibre in their diet can lead to painful dental diseases.

Safe Greens for Guinea Pigs

1. Beetroot - not the leaves or stalks

2. Broccoli

3. Cabbage - red and green

4. Carrots

5. Cauliflower

6. Corn on The Cob - the whole cob

7. Cucumber

8. Kale

9. Peas

10. Spinach

11. Sprout Tops

12. Sugar Snaps

13. Swede

Is Fruit Good For Guinea Pigs?

Fruit should only be given in small quantities as a treat because it has too much sugar in it. Only offer the fruits listed below in very small amounts as a reward or occasional treat.

1. Apples

2. Bananas

3. Grapefruit

4. Grapes (Seedless Only)

5. Strawberries

6. Gooseberries

7. Kiwi Fruit

8. Mango

9. Melon (all types)

10. Orange

11. Pear

12. Tangerine

Always introduce new types of food to their diet gradually, so as not to upset their digestive system. Over the course of a week, you can slowly add the new food to their diets, but keep an eye on their droppings to make sure it is agreeing with them.

Good Sources of Vitamin C For Guinea Pigs

1. Salad Peppers

2. Tomatoes

3. Spinach

4. Asparagus

5. Broccoli

6. Leafy greens such as parsley and kale

You can also buy a special Vitamin C supplement to put in their drinking water. You cannot overdose them on Vitamin C because if your pet consumes too much, they simply pass it out in their urine.

Commercial Guinea Pig Nuggets

There are some very good quality Guinea Pig nuggets on the market, and they usually do contain a good amount of Vitamin C. The problem is that if the food is old and has been stored for a long time, most of the nutrients will have disappeared. Always check sell by dates to ensure they are fresh.

Best Treats For Guinea Pigs

You can buy natural treats at pet shops, which are great for Guinea Pigs because they are good for their teeth and digestive systems. However, you should always avoid any sugary treats, especially if they contain honey, because they could cause diabetes and nasty teeth problems.

Why Do Guinea Pigs Eat Their Droppings?

It is perfectly normal for Guinea Pigs to eat their own droppings. Much like rabbits, Guinea Pigs produce two sorts of droppings. The first being hard and dry ones, which are in fact the ‘real’ faeces. The second type are softer and are called ‘caecotrophs’. These are full of nutrients and fibre, which Guinea Pigs eat, often straight from their bottoms because they get all the goodness out of them.

Plants That Are Poisonous To Guinea Pigs

1. Bluebells

2. Crocus

3. Daffodil

4. Dock

5. Foxglove

6. Hyacinth

7. Laburnum

8. Poppy

9. Ragwort

10. Tulip

11. Yew

Guinea Pigs, like all domestic pets, rely on their owners to provide them with the five essential things for them to lead a happy healthy life:

1. They need a comfortable and safe environment to live in.

2. They need company.

3. They need to be fed a good, balanced diet.

4. They need to be kept busy and entertained.

5. They need their owners to ensure any health issues are dealt with as soon as possible.

Hutches need to be raised off the floor, and they must be large enough for Guinea Pigs to run around in. The larger the hutch the better, so you need to buy the largest hutch you can afford. Guinea Pig hutches need to be placed out of any direct sunlight, and sheltered from any strong winds. During colder months, Guinea Pigs need to be kept indoors, in the house, a shed or an empty garage (never house them in a garage that’s used by a car, exhaust fumes are deadly). Whilst living indoors, they need access to an area where they can run around, so that they don’t become obese or develop osteoporosis (brittle bone disease). If the weather gets very hot, you need to move their hutch and run to a cooler area with good air circulation, but out of draughts. Guinea Pigs can suffer heat stress when temperatures reach over 27 degrees C. Ideally, hutches should be cleaned every day to remove and replace soiled and wet bedding and any uneaten fresh food.

Guinea Pigs love to run around on grass, so that they can nibble it. They very much appreciate a run, but you must ensure it is in a well shaded, sheltered grassy area that’s safe from any predators, including cats. 

Guinea Pigs love and need company, and can get depressed on their own. They should live in pairs or groups. Same sex pairs or groups is fine, but if the sexes are mixed, it is recommended to get the males neutered to avoid unwanted breeding.

If you go away on holiday, you have to organise things so that either a trusted friend, neighbour or relative can take care of them. There are also places to board your Guinea Pigs (Such as ourselves at The Bunny Bunch!). Always make sure that the people taking care of your pet have your contact details in case they need to get in touch with you.